Given the intimidation factor—Klein observed the show from the sidelines—it’s not surprising that Costa played his debut on the safe side. The collection was very Klein in spirit, hewing to a palette of black, white, and warm brown tones with occasional shots of creamy orange and pink. There were elegantly limp knits in featherweight cashmere, viscose, and silk layered under leather jackets; crisp shirts billowing out over tiny shorts or slim tailored pants; and the kind of interesting details that Klein would have used to raise the occasional eyebrow (a lacy, laser-cut lambskin coat, a bright pink taffeta tunic dress, and clear Lucite pumps with neon-bright straps).

How much influence Klein still wields in the design room is unclear, but Costa seems determined not to veer too far from the founder’s course. Then again, why mess with fantastic success? When the show closed with Natalia in a fluttery organza-and-tulle dress that was clearly related to fall’s ruffled robes, it was far more homage than farewell.

– Janet Ozzard