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see all coverage from Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear >
runway reviewAshish
LONDON, September 21, 2004 – Ashish Gupta is a surprise new entry to London Fashion Week: a graduate of Central St. Martins equipped with a big, bright sense of humor. At a moment when many designers are solemnly setting themselves the task of making cheerful clothes, here comes Gupta with the genuine article. Call it Pop African with a sprinkling of Bollywood glitter. Then throw in a bit of vintage Americana, and you're nearly there.

Even that description isn't quite equal to the gold-and-green African scissor-printed trench that opened this show. Or the sequined, re-embroidered boleros and A-line shirts with their loud, jolly patterns of red fish or outsize flowers. Together with shiny metallic madras kilts, cartoony jogging suits, and spangled-up Minnie Mouse T-shirts, it adds up to a collection of young, accessible pieces with gorgeous production values.

Which is no wonder, when you consider the back story: Gupta was born in New Delhi, came to London to study, and now has his vibrant clothes hand-printed and re-embroidered in India. Part of multicultural Britain, and something to be proud of.

– Sarah Mower 

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