Their key image must surely have been that famous photo of the naked Nastassja Kinski entwined with a snake. There was scarcely a single outfit in the entire collection that didn't involve python. It began with Naomi Campbell in a reptilian corset dress, with arms and neck full of tribal-deluxe metal jewelry simultaneously signaling Africa. That idea progressed into a vast continent of python-smothered outfits, from trenchcoats to Coco-esque jackets to jeans and evening gowns, not to mention boots, bangles, and minibags that swung from every available belt loop.

In their African theme, Dolce & Gabbana also struck on the current Milanese taste for raffia fringe and feathers (quail fluff on a blouson, exotic green plumes as a skirt, quills to create a hip-slung mini.) Along the way, they managed to work in their personal penchant for lingerie, inserting lace into denim and splicing it into the kick-pleats of a python skirt. There was the occasional signature pantsuit (now with a puff-sleeved jacket) and, of course, the usual tableau of major evening gowns for a grand finale.

– Sarah Mower