Marni
MILAN, September 28, 2004
By Sarah Mower
With her country-fresh pink cheeks, bird's-nest hair, and enviably serene smile, the Marni girl projects an easy, all's-well-with-the-world outlook. Step over her threshold, and you're in a place of slightly batty loveliness, where clothes have the touching resonance of sunny days, and getting dressed seems like a series of happy accidents.Designer Consuelo Castiglioni picked up her spring vibe from a couple of handcrafty, nostalgic artifacts: a Hessian place mat naïvely appliquéd with birds found in Portobello market and a bright-green flower-printed cotton sixties swimsuit from the L.A. vintage store Jet Rag. She teased out the essence of those oddly contrasting artifacts and wove it in to her existing passion for fifties kitchen-curtain prints, mattress stripes, and glitter-shot fabric.
Result: a collection of pretty egg-shaped skirts, Empire sundresses, duster coats, and shrunken knits, often pulled together with sparkly belts or a humble piece of string. The Hessian table mat turned up as a burlap, birdie-embroidered skirt, and the swimsuit pattern in cheerful printed terry boleros and frocks. Castiglioni also made her first excursion into eveningwear, in bunchy pearl-gray taffeta dresses. As with everything else in this collection, they were charm personified.
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Spring 2005 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alistair Carr Anna Molinari Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester As Four Ashish -
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Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Boudicca Buddhist Punk Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chado Ralph Rucci Charles Anastase Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K & Kerrigan Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Eley Kishimoto Eleykishimoto Ellesse Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Etro -
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Fashion Fringe Fendi -
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Gardem Giles Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jean Paul Gaultier Jeffrey Chow Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Paul Smith Women Perry Ellis Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roland Mouret -
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Sari Gueron Sebastian Pons Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney -
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Temperley London Thakoon Tommy Hilfiger Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf VPL -
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