Whether their collections were right on the money trendwise or so singularly individual that they were hard to miss, these new and noteworthy talents caught our eye this season.
Now that Ralph Rucci has decamped to Paris, Christian Cota seems poised to swoop in and make fast fans of New York's young socials with his pretty, technically advanced collection. A hand-painted shift dress was a surefire hit; likewise a peachy Madame Grès-ish goddess dress.
Kaito Hori and Iku Furudate brought their eco-minded collection to the runway for the first time since launching two years ago in Paris. In the mix were cocoon dresses in of-the-moment sheers and feather-light jersey frocks.
With so many designers more concerned with fantasy than reality, Sadaharu Hoshino's Paris collection of tailored jackets, waistcoats, and anything-but-plain- Jane button-downs was a refreshingly wearable change of pace.
Chloë Sevigny is among this Italian designer's early adopters. She loves an hourglass dress with a special detail, and Francesco Scognamiglio's Spring collection was full of them: rolled collars, peaked shoulders, ruffled bodices, and bold brass buttons.
Ryan McGinley's photos made Jen Kao's debut presentation a New York fashion week must-see, but her quirky clothes—a mix of patchwork rompers, sequined tanks and jackets, and floor-length day dresses—stand on their own.


Half of New York's now-defunct Naum duo, Julia Jentzsch went solo for Spring but abandoned neither her penchant for innovative fabrics nor her love of fluid shapes. Highlights ranged from a sharply cut silk suit to a sinuous floor-grazing slipdress.
Working in a strict palette of black and white, Abdul Koroma and Andrew Jones sent out a graphic collection that married sexy tailoring with London's still-going-strong body-con trend.
Canadian stylist Rad Hourani made his Paris runway debut with a dark and austere yet many-layered collection that nodded in the direction of both Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester.
Industrial materials met handmade couture techniques in Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle's first Paris runway collection after three seasons of presentations. The effect of all that vinyl and those stiff, sculptural shapes? Twenty-first-century Pierre Cardin.
Simplicity ruled at Russian-born Alexander Terekhov's New York show, whether he was designing belted blouson tops and flowing knee-length skirts for day or shimmering cocktail dresses, the best of which came in liquid silver.
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