MILAN, September 24, 2007 – Alessandro Dell'Acqua said he'd been inspired by the Japanese photographer Araki, and we know what that means: "art" photos of bound girls in sleazy interiors, a lot of clear vinyl on cheap upholstery—that sort of thing. Maybe that makes it sound a bit too racy, though. This wasn't exactly a specialist erotica show, although plasticized transparencies, rubber embroideries, and lingerie details were worked alongside couture lace, tulle ruffles, and ostrich feathers. Though the show opened with three exits of bras, big panties, and organza boleros, it was, as always, essentially a dress collection, styled this time as a body-con take on the cheongsam-and-obi look. Oddly enough, it was the one random graphic white shift, with a Chinese neckline fastened with silver hooks and eyes, that drew the applause. Apart from that, the show didn't touch on anything Prada and Dolce & Gabbana (or even Helmut Lang in his rubberized dress collection) didn't do ten or so years ago, but Dell'Acqua's fans are probably young enough to enjoy the revival—or simply to not give a damn.

– Sarah Mower