PARIS, October 3, 2007 – The invite featured a prominent rainbow on one side, a motif that was echoed on the runway's neon-lit backdrop and the venue's benches. Did that mean we were in for a change chez Lagerfeld? Well, not exactly. The designer started, as usual, with sharp black and white tailoring, as exemplified by the graphic, fitted jackets and vests worn—with skinny pants and tulle-covered jeans, respectively—by Gemma and Snejana. Also in this category were fit-and-flare fifties dresses with geometric cutouts at the neckline, and a high-neck sleeveless blouse and a billowy frock that looked not unlike Lagerfeld's own monastic shirts.

The show's other idea—body-con jersey dressing—is where the bright hues came in, and it introduced an element of sexiness that the designer doesn't often explore in this line. But count on Lagerfeld to add a layer of intrigue. Veilings of black mesh crisscrossed the body, echoing the more angular shapes of his tailoring. After dark, he laid on the sequins and crystals—in horizontal stripes across a thick-strapped little black dress, for example. The takeaway message? There wasn't one, necessarily. This is a collection, in essence, of pieces, and the best thing about it was the increased variety.

– Nicole Phelps