Chloé
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For five decades, bohemian ingenues from Brigitte Bardot to Kate Moss have flocked to Chloé for its dreamy, quirky separates. The house has managed to maintain its beloved niche in ever-changing times, giving the pastel treatment to floaty blouses, maxi skirts, liquid slipdresses, and—because even dreamers need to go to work—tailored suiting options.
Founded in Paris by the Egyptian-born Gaby Aghion and her business partner Jacques Lenoir in 1952, Chloé from its conception was on a quest to bring high-quality prêt-à-porter to a market in which fine craftsmanship was only available from couture houses. As the first luxury ready-to-wear line, it has attracted a rotating roster of each era's brightest design talents. Karl Lagerfeld's decade-plus tenure at the house started in 1966 (interrupted in the eighties by his move to Chanel). Martine Sitbon took over for several years, prettying things up with polka dots—then Lagerfeld returned for a five-year run in 1992. Stella McCartney succeeded Lagerfeld before leaving to launch her own line; she was followed by Phoebe Philo, her onetime assistant, who ascended the ranks in 2001 and quickly became a critical darling. In 2006 Philo bowed out to spend more time with her family and was followed briefly by Yvan Mispelaere and then, less briefly, by Paulo Melim Andersson. Andersson was replaced three collections later by a relative unknown named Hannah MacGibbon, whose first Chloé outing was a small collection for Resort 2009.
Hannah MacGibbon
Not much has been written about Chloé's latest designer, the first woman to try her hand at the label associated with budding feminine exuberance since Phoebe Philo exited in 2006. But Hannah MacGibbon, it turns out, worked for five years behind the scenes at Chloé, designing under Philo's direction and later consulting on Chloé's signature perfume.
MacGibbon, age 37, is a Central Saint Martins grad who had honed her skills as an assistant director at Valentino before becoming part of the creative team that made Chloé hotter than ever in the Philo years. Rumor says that MacGibbon turned down the gig the first time she was asked. Now she must show that she's ready to take the reins.
If Philo's success as an assistant-turned-boss—she herself worked under her predecessor, Stella McCartney—can be taken as any indication of MacGibbon's future, things are looking up for the label and its legion of fans.
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