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Saint Laurent

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, who died in June 2008 at the age of 71, was not only the most influential designer of the second half of the twentieth century, he was also the most mythic: a dreamy, fragile creature with huge eyeglass frames (he wore nothing else in one iconic portrait) and a private life in frequent disarray. As his onetime companion (and later strictly business partner) Pierre Bergé put it, Saint Laurent was born with a nervous breakdown. Hailing from French-ruled Algeria, the designer started his business in Paris in 1961 with Bergé's financial backing. Saint Laurent was already a compelling figure, having been lionized as the savior of the house of Dior at the age of 21, and before long he was turning out couture collections—and then ready-to-wear, under the Rive Gauche label—that drew alternately aghast and enraptured headlines. The images from these vividly themed collections flash through the fashion history books like stills from a movie: the androgynous Weimar tuxedos of 1966, the midiskirts of 1971's reviled World War II show, the Cossack chic of 1976's sublime Ballets Russes collection. From the safari jacket and the peacoat to the famous Le Smoking, Saint Laurent's successes were so potent, they became absorbed into the common vernacular of late-century fashion. When it revived retro ideas, the house was in the vanguard of a trend that eventually became so mainstream that by the nineties it was almost the only way to do fashion.

By then Saint Laurent had largely retreated from the stage. Alber Elbaz and then Tom Ford tried their respective hands at a few ready-to-wear collections, while the couture operation was shuttered, to a sigh of Parisian nostalgia, in 2002. Stefano Pilati, who served under Ford at YSL, held the reins from 2004 until 2012. His tenure produced a thriving accessories business and some acclaimed collections. Early on, especially, his designs had a strong trickle-down effect on other top talents, but later collections were deemed too tricky by critics. Hedi Slimane began making changes soon after he was named creative director, renaming the label Saint Laurent and, perhaps even more surprisingly, moving its design atelier to his home base in Los Angeles.

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FASHION SHOWS (61)

  1. All Seasons

  2. Ready-to-wear

  3. Resort

  4. Pre-Fall

  5. Couture

  6. Menswear

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  1. Spring 2015 Menswear
  2. Fall 2014 RTW
  3. Fall 2014 Menswear
  4. Spring 2014 RTW
  5. Spring 2014 Menswear
  6. Resort 2014
  7. Fall 2013 RTW
  8. Fall 2013 Menswear
  9. Pre-Fall 2013
  10. Spring 2013 RTW
  11. Fall 2012 RTW
  12. Fall 2012 Menswear
  13. Pre-Fall 2012
  14. Spring 2012 RTW
  15. Spring 2012 Menswear
  16. Resort 2012
  17. Fall 2011 RTW
  18. Fall 2011 Menswear
  19. Pre-Fall 2011
  20. Spring 2011 RTW
  21. Spring 2011 Menswear
  22. Resort 2011
  23. Fall 2010 RTW
  24. Fall 2010 Menswear
  25. Pre-Fall 2010
  26. Spring 2010 RTW
  27. Resort 2010
  28. Fall 2009 RTW
  29. Pre-Fall 2009
  30. Spring 2009 RTW
  31. Spring 2009 Menswear
  32. Fall 2008 RTW
  33. Fall 2008 Menswear
  34. Spring 2008 RTW
  35. Spring 2008 Menswear
  36. Resort 2008
  37. Fall 2007 RTW
  38. Fall 2007 Menswear
  39. Spring 2007 RTW
  40. Spring 2007 Menswear
  41. Fall 2006 RTW
  42. Fall 2006 Menswear
  43. Spring 2006 RTW
  44. Spring 2006 Menswear
  45. Fall 2005 RTW
  46. Fall 2005 Menswear
  47. Spring 2005 RTW
  48. Spring 2005 Menswear
  49. Fall 2004 RTW
  50. Spring 2004 RTW
  51. Fall 2003 RTW
  52. Spring 2003 RTW
  53. Fall 2002 RTW
  54. Spring 2002 Couture
  55. Spring 2002 RTW
  56. Fall 2001 Couture
  57. Fall 2001 RTW
  58. Spring 2001 Couture
  59. Spring 2001 RTW
  60. Fall 2000 RTW
  61. Spring 2000 RTW
  1. Fall 2014 RTW
  2. Spring 2014 RTW
  3. Fall 2013 RTW
  4. Spring 2013 RTW
  5. Fall 2012 RTW
  6. Spring 2012 RTW
  7. Fall 2011 RTW
  8. Spring 2011 RTW
  9. Fall 2010 RTW
  10. Spring 2010 RTW
  11. Fall 2009 RTW
  12. Spring 2009 RTW
  13. Fall 2008 RTW
  14. Spring 2008 RTW
  15. Fall 2007 RTW
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  17. Fall 2006 RTW
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  19. Fall 2005 RTW
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  21. Fall 2004 RTW
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  25. Fall 2002 RTW
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  27. Fall 2001 RTW
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  29. Fall 2000 RTW
  30. Spring 2000 RTW
  1. Resort 2014
  2. Resort 2012
  3. Resort 2011
  4. Resort 2010
  5. Resort 2008
  1. Pre-Fall 2013
  2. Pre-Fall 2012
  3. Pre-Fall 2011
  4. Pre-Fall 2010
  5. Pre-Fall 2009
  1. Spring 2002 Couture
  2. Fall 2001 Couture
  3. Spring 2001 Couture
  1. Spring 2015 Menswear
  2. Fall 2014 Menswear
  3. Spring 2014 Menswear
  4. Fall 2013 Menswear
  5. Fall 2012 Menswear
  6. Spring 2012 Menswear
  7. Fall 2011 Menswear
  8. Spring 2011 Menswear
  9. Fall 2010 Menswear
  10. Spring 2009 Menswear
  11. Fall 2008 Menswear
  12. Spring 2008 Menswear
  13. Fall 2007 Menswear
  14. Spring 2007 Menswear
  15. Fall 2006 Menswear
  16. Spring 2006 Menswear
  17. Fall 2005 Menswear
  18. Spring 2005 Menswear

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Hedi Slimane

Hedi Slimane

Hedi Slimane didn't so much arrive on the menswear scene as he exploded. The signature skinny look he established during his seven-year tenure at Dior Homme, where he landed after four years at Yves Saint Laurent, shook up a staid industry. The streamlined cut of his suits was hugely influential, and it wasn't just rockers like Pete Doherty who were fans. His creations had crossover appeal with bold-face females like Madonna. But despite all the noise he was making at Dior Homme, he quietly stepped away from the atelier in 2007, moved to Los Angeles, and picked up the camera full-time. more >

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