COMPLETE COLLECTION VIDEO

NEW YORK, June 14, 2006

By Nicole Phelps

Say so long to glam rock. Gucci's Frida Giannini has traded in fall's gold pantsuits and ultrashort metallic jersey dresses for smocking, folksy lace, nautical details, and dolphin prints. This resort collection marks Giannini's first anniversary as creative director of the house's womenswear line and a shift back to the feminine and more nonchalant look of her debut efforts. The show, at Milk Studios' sun-drenched new penthouse, began with a reworking of her mega-successful multicolor Flora print in porcelain blue and ivory. It appeared on a slim coat, a strapless peasant dress, and a maillot paired with pinstripe short shorts that were subtly suggestive, rather than overt. Ditto the colorblocked, almost crafty, jersey pieces and the sleeveless minidresses trimmed with poufy lace—despite eyebrow-raising upper-thigh hemlines, they were resolutely sweet.

Only the leather and suede motocross jackets in snow white and deep burgundy, along with a few jersey evening numbers (a short halter style in wine with gold leather straps was the standout), hinted at the sex and flash that Tom Ford made synonymous with the brand. Fair enough, perhaps—his successor has to find her own way. Still, the accessories could have used a bit more pop. Giannini has taken the label in a breezier direction this season—to "1960s St. Tropez," said her program notes—but salt water, sand, and sun be damned, the Gucci girl expects a souped-up and superluxe bag.