Let's hope that the traveling woman for whom Luca Orlandi created his resort collection has better luck with the weather than the designer had today. After a delay caused by New York's driving rain, models clad in sunglasses took to the runway in summery vacation wear, much of it with a twenties touch, a developing theme of the season. A drop-waisted pleated number had the jaunty ease of a tennis dress that Daisy Buchanan might've worn. Drawstrings, likewise, added a sporty look to clothes.

Orlandi said the line was designed for a woman who's "in Rome one day and Osaka the other," but his global mix leaned heavily toward Jackie O. in her Capri days. Jacquard coats looked breezy; the same could not be said, though, of the suits, a number of which were on the matronly side. Still, it's not hard to imagine a sophisticate packing some pleated skirts and cardigan-easy jackets or a cream-colored embroidered evening ensemble into her Goyard luggage before jetting off for (fingers crossed) sunnier climes.