July 09, 2007
What makes Olivier Theyskens such a compelling designer is the way his collections tend to riff on and grow out of what came before. For resort, the former Rochas frontman continued to explore the themes he established at his first Nina Ricci runway show in March. There were more of the twisting-around-the-body evening dresses, but this time sans the feathers and sculpted "wings." Instead, he pieced spirals together with patchworks of fabric for an elegant and ultimately more subtle effect than the one produced by his fantastical fall creations. The color-blocking theme extended into casual cocktail numbers and short T-shirt dresses. What felt particularly fresh were his suits, which ranged from a skinny navy style in satin to a boxier version of almost hobo proportions that was romantic and rebellious at once, not unlike the rest of the collection or, indeed, Theyskens himself.