January 07, 2009
Andreas Melbostad's debut pre-fall collection continued the subtle evolution of the increasingly coveted Phi brand. There were lots of dresses—some with signature bustiers, others with a grown-up take on a Victorian children's silhouette, and still more with delicate feather embellishments. To convey the ease he was after, Melbostad showed tailored pieces with woven fronts and knit sleeves and backs. A burgundy utility coat in alpaca was hard and soft at once. Our prediction? Pre-fall's velvet paneled biker pants will create the same frenzy as did last year's lacy leggings, which entirely sold out, leaving some fans in the cold.