January 11, 2009 New York
"I was looking at Kate Moss wearing vintage Ungaro and it looked so modern," said Esteban Cortazar as he walked Style.com through his pre-fall collection. According to the designer, this is the first season that he's dived into the house's vast archives. The result? A neat negotiation between slouchiness (louche knits) and shapeliness (fluid tailoring) and looks that are right-on retro, like a mini with curvy 3-D insets, or one-armed cocktail dresses in an acid palette of purple, pink, and royal blue. "Nothing is aggressive," added Cortazar, "but at the same time it's strong."
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