Consider epaulets, the tablike vestiges of buttoned-down militaria that are currently seeing all kinds of action at Burberry Prorsum. Christopher Bailey figured out on his pre-fall drawing board that they're a neat device for flagging two trends in one, not only signaling military but also adding shoulder emphasis without the need for crazy padding.

Fabric shoulder strips appeared in a traditional way on a khaki officer's coat inspired by a World War I uniform in the company archive and took less conventional guises elsewhere, cropping up in navy fur, roosting on an Air Force blue jacket, and even turning girly as a couple of black satin ribbon bows on knits. Is the detail in this transition season between Bailey's short, tight, and drapey Spring collection and what he'll be doing for Fall significant? Could this more regimental take on military (which also includes some great cropped aviator jackets) indicate something more sober and substantial in the works?

That's too early to call, but the close-to-the-body cut of the coats looked strong shrugged over the pretty, droopy lace dresses Bailey has made a house staple.