February 09, 2010 New York
Pre-fall, for Tomas Maier, is all about ease. Relaxed blanket coats top roomy knit sweaters and dhoti-style pants, and the only suits in the lineup come in softest wide-wale corduroy. His sack dresses, some cut asymmetrically, have an effortless pull-them-on-and-go quality, but not to worry, they're still plenty sexy paired with drop-dead over-the-knee satin wedge-heel boots. In keeping with the designer's karate-inspired Spring collection, there are sporty elements, too, like a suede drawstring-hem parka or a fitted jersey dress with sweatshirt-style raglan sleeves. Pleated frocks with built-in cardigans are his contribution to the season's faux-layered trend. Even the bags have a new slouch about them. Influenced by the vintage Bottega Veneta pieces that have been popping up on eBay these days, Maier added long straps to messenger-style shapes so they can be worn slung across the torso. All around, a very cool collection from this luxe, upper-crust label.
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