January 10, 2010 New York
Phoebe Philo has thrilled editors and retailers alike with the way she's suddenly re-energized minimalism for a new generation at Celine. Her latest effort, with its strong focus on outerwear, intense colors, and newly playful spirit, will keep the accolades coming. More so than the razor-focused Spring show, pre-fall is a collection of iconic wardrobe pieces. There's the bonded cognac leather poncho worn over a navy and red marinière tunic and cigarette-skinny stonewashed jeans; there's Philo's must-have high-waist flaring canvas trousers; and, of course, there's her de rigueur all-in-one, this season color-blocked in white and black for evening. Surprises came in the form of a not-so-basic cashmere sweater (intarsia'd on the front was a car, complete with "Celine" plates) and the shoes (bright primary-color suede numbers with natural leather wedge heels). A red cable-knit sweater and slim pants in the same vibrant hue would ensure that the woman who wears them stands out in a crowd, to say the least. Such is Philo's persuasive power, it's a good bet we'll see someone do it.
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