After a Spring show that was all pale grays and whites with just a few shots of red, Donna Karan
's pre-fall lineup, which takes its inspiration from autumn leaves in Central Park, is all about bold color. Think plum, brandy, olive, and heath with touches of parrot green and kingfisher blue. Karan used a peacock camouflage, the collection's sole print, for a cargo jacket—a piece that had the dual function of dressing up her pegged, elasticized skirts, or dressing down one of her slinky jersey gowns. Also smart and versatile was the double-knit bustier and silk jersey floor-grazing skirt combo she proposed for evening. This was signature Karan with its juxtapositions of utilitarian army jackets and trenches alongside relaxed T-shirt dresses and trapeze chemises. The vibrant color palette should ensure that it stands out in the stores.