January 13, 2010 Milan
Turning his back on the fabulous palazzi of Florence, Deacon opted for the factory where the famous Richard Ginori porcelain is produced. The clanking of the production line melded nicely with Steve Mackey's booming metal music, the huge prints of tools, and the spectacular Stephen Jones constructions that decorated the models' heads. But ultimately, it was (wo)man, not machine, that Deacon emphasized with the fetishistic edge that is almost his signature: the hook-and-eye closings on a second-skin leather coat-dress, the shoulder straps that could've been lifted from bras, the va-voom definition of the body in a contoured sponge crepe coat-dress, with vertiginous Louboutin stilettos compounding the whole effect. Deacon loves a dangerous curve on a bad girl, and if there's something risky about the result, there's also a toughness and wit to give the clothes a kick. Together they made the Spring 2010 collection he showed in Paris last October his best yet. And these new looks suggest he's not done with risk-taking.