"Conservative." It's not a word usually associated with Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough or their Proenza Schouler label, but it's a term they used to describe the direction of their winning pre-fall collection. "There's something about a suit that feels cooler now than a miniskirt dripping in studs," Hernandez explained. A jersey double-face duffel coat teamed with high-waist glen plaid shorts and a washed oxford shirt had a collegiate, boyish vibe. Ditto the leather-sleeve varsity jackets, cropped cashmere sweaters and pleated pants, and shirtdresses with subtle cowboy shirt detailing. Tie-dye-like shibori prints enlivened kimono-style dresses and the long-sleeve T-shirts they were layered over.

After-dark, the duo amped up the glitter factor, weaving holographic sequins and metallic mohair into little black jackets and pinafore dresses, and "lacquering" tweed shorts to give a hint of shine to their saturated violet hue. The most exciting development, though, is the introduction of a 25-piece capsule collection of lower-priced items. In times like these, that's good news for Proenza Schouler fans, collegiate and otherwise.