Anyone expecting chainsaw-hacked pastel tulle ball gowns in Viktor & Rolf
's pre-fall collection is going to be sorely disappointed. The Dutch duo has grounded its latest effort, dubbed "Paint It Black" after the Rolling Stones tune, firmly in reality. But that's not to say there weren't some clever, playful ideas. Undo the snaps around the shoulders of a cropped jacket and it becomes a vest. Do the same on a pair of knee-high boots and you've got a sexy pair of booties. There was also a sharply cut double-revers tuxedo jacket, a bold beaver-trim gilet, and one very cool Barbour-inspired cape. And how's this for practical? Inspired by the success of their five-piece capsule collection of little black dresses, the designers added a white-shirt capsule to their lineup. The best of the bunch combines crisp cotton poplin and drapey ivory silk charmeuse.