January 25, 2010 Paris
To judge from the pre-fall collection—the current team's third outing, after Resort and Spring—the ambition to clean the slate and write a new, distinct identity for Vionnet is still some distance from being realized. Perhaps understandably, there seems to be some carryover from Paglialunga's last place of work and a tendency toward overly complicated shapes that tie and wrap—all shown with gray flannel thigh-length spats meant to be worn inside knee-high boots. That's a lot of conceptualism for one piece of footwear. More attractive and certainly easier to wear was the sportier side of the offering: simple city separates featuring hand-drawn fifties and sixties grid patterns.