"[Mitzah] Bricard is one of those people, increasingly rare, who make elegance their sole reason for being," wrote Christian Dior
in his autobiography, Christian Dior and I
. How could John Galliano resist a muse like that? For Resort, he revisited the patternmaker-turned-atelier power broker's beloved leopard spots and her favorite shade of lilac, whipping them up into fifties-ish pieces like a belted sheath, a three-quarter-sleeve pullover blouse worn with a black leather pencil skirt, and a swingy knee-length coat with contrast lapels. Pearls figured large in Bricard's repertoire, too, so the models wore multiple strands with everything from houndstooth skirtsuits to softly draping floor-length evening dresses. Galliano's light touch, especially on a graceful nipped-waist black lace dress, made the retro shapes look modern.