June 02, 2009
Francisco Costa didn't put destination clothes on his Resort runway—no bikinis or caftans here—but the airy palette; the weightless, often diaphanous fabrics; and the way many of the looks fell away from the body did convey a mood of relaxed, unburdened ease. The "T dress," so named because of its off-the-shoulders silhouette, was a key piece—for day it was cut in transparent nylon and billowed asymmetrically to the knee; for evening it came in shimmering gray organza and grazed the top of the model's skimmy leather oxfords. A gold nylon knit jacket and matching bandeau top that evoked Fortuny seemed to radiate a light of their own, and an asymmetrical silk Lurex gown would positively glow at a sunset wedding. If the sheerness of many of the other pieces—see-through cuff-detail trousers?—was a bit puzzling, there were plenty of more practical but still chic options hanging on the showroom's racks.