"She's a kooky, really rich girl, who likes to play a little with couture pieces but mixed in a young way, slightly haphazard and mad." That was Consuelo Castiglioni's party line on the Marni girl she envisaged for her Resort collection, though you could say that same description fits the Marni girl pretty much any season. There was the same attention to fabric research in silks that look hand-printed, for instance, or in a tweed tulle shot with Lurex. And there was the same vintage-y feel in a dress, say, with pintucked bodice and plissé silk, or in loafers worn with deliberately baggy socks (very Mary McCarthy). But, if anything, the seductive Marni madness was more muted than usual. Delightful details like chalked-on pockets and lapels for cashmere knits were still there, but the subtext of the collection was complement, not clash.