Other big-name designers may be dialing down their Resort presentations, but not Oscar de la Renta. He was back at 583 Park Avenue today mingling with editors and retailers before putting on a show with a strong French twist. A belted tunic vest and matching skirt, a shirtdress, and a cropped jacket worn with jeans all made from tweedy bouclés and topped with matching berets should keep his ladies happy—although they'll likely skip the bobby socks and sandals.

Paris was inspirational to many a Fall collection, so de la Renta was hardly treading new territory here. It was good, then, to see him delve into his own box of tricks when it came to the evening looks. His little black dresses were alternately embellished with paillettes at the hem, edged and belted in frothy point d'esprit, or blossoming with three-dimensional silk faille roses at the portrait neckline. Among the occasion gowns, a silver lamé draped mousseline number was a standout, but he saved the best for last: a long-sleeved smoky gray column embroidered with silvery pearls. Its refined elegance was unmistakably Oscar.