June 15, 2009 London
Edwardian photographs of Tahitian women and a gossip magazine's snaps of the Sarkozys' visit with the Spanish royal family made an unlikely merge in Richard Nicoll's mind for Resort. "I used the idea of Tahitian sarongs crossed with bits of royal regalia," he said in his London studio, pulling out what he called a tiered grosgrain grass skirt, made of petrol-colored layered tabs cut like medal ribbons. The South Seas references come built into the draped dusty pink seersucker candy-stripe bustier of a jumpsuit Lily Allen has grabbed for her appearance at Glastonbury—the Erickson Beamon brooches are optional. Since Nicoll's never really one to obsess too much over his starting points, though, the real gist of his lineup is the slightly sporty ease he's made a signature. Striped ticking crisply patched onto the front of canvas tailoring carries over from his hit Fall collection, while his graphic cutouts reappear as veiled silver Lurex velvet placed on a georgette shift. Meanwhile, there was plenty of the square-cut silk dresses Nicoll's followers love. Essentially giant T-shirts, they have enough presence to transit coolly from beach to office.
See all Timeline