Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren played with opposites for Resort, focusing especially on the masculine/feminine polarity. Natty toppers had scarf-tied belts, and a crepe-front jacket with exposed tailoring details came with a chiffon back. A similar fabric pairing conceit was carried through to the knitwear. Draping wasn't just for dresses; pant legs were ruched and the overall fit was loose, the attitude relaxed. The collection was stronger for being gimmick-free.

The Dutch duo's five-piece Black Dress collection bowed alongside Resort. It consists of vintage-looking cocktail numbers. Is there a more recession-proof garment around? "It seemed like such a logical combination, Viktor & Rolf and the little black dress," the designers explained. "That such a simple garment is so infinitely adaptable is greatly appealing."