It's round three for Vionnet
. Sophia Kokosalaki and Marc Audibet had tried their hands at the storied French house before investor Matteo Marzotto, formerly of Valentino, bought the company earlier this year and installed a veteran of Miuccia Prada's design studio, Rodolfo Paglialunga, as the label's new creative director. Paglialunga's first collection for pre-spring works the tropes Vionnet was known for—Grecian draping, bias cut, exposed shoulders—without being a strict homage. That's thanks in part to the accessories: understated pumps and T-straps, streamlined clutches and chain bags, and especially the geometric gold cuffs. Versatility was a key Vionnet innovation, so some of the frocks can be worn back to front, while the capelike sleeves of a shirtdress can be tied behind the back to create a different, more casual silhouette. The collection was at its most successful when Paglialunga kept things simple: One timeless bit of unfussy elegance—a sleeveless black cocktail number that billowed down the back—would be a welcome addition to any woman's closet, not least of all because of its recession-cognizant $800 price tag.