Stefano Pilati said he was partly inspired by seashells, but there wasn't anything overtly beachy about his Resort lineup for Yves Saint Laurent. Rather, the designer's stated influence informed the collection's subtle prints and the circular cuts of looks like a chic bronze silk cocktail dress (part of a new Editions Soir mini evening line). The theme also found a quiet echo in the spiraling Lesage embroidery at the shoulders of printed shifts and a long, gauzy white dress.

Everything—even the tailoring, which has been such a Pilati strong suit these last several seasons—had a certain fluidity. A deconstructed, unlined jacket topped a bustier dress, while the classic YSL trench was reworked with a shawl collar and trumpet cuffs. The designer cut an evening bolero inspired by couture in topaz cotton—"it's less pretentious that way," he said. Not to mention more modern.