Serenity now? No, serenity then. After BCBG's light, white Spring offering, pre-fall was anything but neutral: Inspired by the blazing colors of Guy Bourdin's photography, Max and Lubov Azria put together a collection of mostly long, loose frocks in blocks of vivid gem tones. Many were tiered and paneled, with aprons and cowls floating over crepe and georgette sheaths. In some cases, the piled-on colors, layers, and textures (several looks contained peekaboo levels of sheer) looked a bit busy. But where it worked, it worked, as in a navy and cream shift shown with a cropped sweater, and a geometric-print halter dress whose asymmetrical pleated skirt flirted with the new, ladylike mid-length.