The motorcycle mamas have left the building. Christopher Bailey's pre-fall collection for Burberry Prorsum is a much subtler affair than Spring's spikes and studs, and all the stronger for it. As always, he builds off the house's outerwear heritage; there were many standout coats here. Tops among them: a fox trench with a silvery blue ombré-like effect, a fitted puffer with a bell hem, and a black number with a double row of buttons and a deep hem of rabbit fur sheared to resemble much pricier astrakhan. Many coats came with removable knit collars for versatility; take it off and your fox goes from day to night.

Bailey was on to flares seasons before other designers caught the vibe. He showed the leg-elongating look again for pre-fall in orange or green tweed, pairing the pants with fitted jackets that featured kicky peplums in back. His dresses had a more bohemian flavor, with their abstracted floral prints, long sleeves, and below-the-knee lengths. This designer has never been much for putting true eveningwear on the runway, but he did it two ways for the showroom. First, he offered streamlined tuxedos not only for the guys but for gals, too, and then there were the romantic floor-length frocks, the prettiest with a deep V-neck and a lush blue and white print. Bailey might consider revisiting the topic on his Fall catwalk in February.