Ennio Capasa dialed back the color for pre-fall, trading in the turquoise, orange, red, and royal blue that made such a big impact on his Spring runway for the hue most closely associated with Costume National
. That would be black, with hits of taupe, brown, and navy for variety. Cut was center of mind for the designer. "I approached this collection focusing on tailoring and uniform softened with knitwear," he said. "My reference was the minimal sportswear of the seventies that I've always liked." That puts his bouclé pantsuit, a to-the-floor V-neck dress, and the brown leather shift that was worn over a black suede button-down in good company: The seventies are still going strong elsewhere this season, and they're one focal point of the Fall men's shows that are happening in Europe this week. Capasa has always had a way with outerwear, and his new lineup has a couple of standouts, including a cropped shearling bomber and an elongated leather trench. Both had swagger to spare.