Diane von Furstenberg
and her new creative director, Yvan Mispelaere, found pre-fall inspiration in a moment that has the legendary designer's initials written all over it. "We looked back at the glorious American sportswear of the 1970's," Mispelaere explained. "Diane's focus, then as now, is on the working girl, and easy clothes to go to work with." At times the influence felt quite literal, as with the geometric print of a matching blouse and skirt, or a brown Ultrasuede shirtdress. But more often than not, the results were subtle; this despite a bright Edward Hopper-meets-Alex Katz palette that paired an emerald green mohair coat with a mustard rib knit turtleneck and turquoise pants, or a lemon yellow hammered silk top with a brick red skirt. The most modern piece in the collection just might be their update to the original wrap dress, which isn't really a wrap dress at all, just looks like one. "It goes on like a T-shirt," Mispelaere said. "No zippers; Diane doesn't like zippers." Why, exactly? "Because they wake up your lover when you're slipping back into your dress."