Giorgio Armani was aiming for stringency with his pre-fall Emporio Armani collection. Clothes that are "extremely clean," read the brief. "Conced[ing] nothing to frivolity." It didn't quite match up to the assortment presented, which was distinguished instead by its raffishness. As with many Armani collections, there was a strong debt to menswear in the fabrics and the shapes shown here, but these weren't elegant, fluid suits—they were nubby, soft-textured knits and coats, piled one on the other. There was a ragazzo feel to the knee-length breeches and bloomers, the scratchy-soft angora overcoats that looked like menswear tweeds, militaristic leather jackets, the little motorist's caps. The feminine touch came from snug-shouldered jackets and the occasional floral print. Here and there, a Scottish terrier asserted itself, appearing on tops. Why? Better to ask why not, and happily concede at least that much to frivolity.