In line with the winning Couture collection he showed in Paris last week, Jean Paul Gaultier
revisited his signatures for pre-fall. The camel trench reappeared as a sharply cut skirtsuit or a wide-legged pantsuit. Both the pencil skirt and trousers came with a doubled waistband, as if your lingerie were coming out for a sneak peek. That masculine/feminine mix turned up in other ways, too: A pinstripe jacket featured a ruched overlay on the front to give it an hourglass shape, and a strapless red cocktail dress was worn over a matching button-down and tie. Gaultier used the same shade of red for a knockout evening number that can be worn two ways. Unhook a loop from your right shoulder and your clingy knee-length silk jersey dress is suddenly a floor-length stunner. On the other side of the equation, the designer's sexy Le Smoking came with a black chiffon cape boasting satin lapels.