Kenzo
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 27, 2011
By Tim Blanks
Creative director Antonio Marras insisted there was nothing archival in the Kenzo pre-fall collection. If that's the case, then he has well and truly osmosed Kenzo Takada's design sensibility, because the clothes effortlessly touched all the label's bases. The theme was "urban nomad." The Kenzo gypsy was citified, with a dark, sophisticated color palette and a silhouette cinched lean with a wide belt. She was an urban peasant in a pintucked blouse with a print of Japanese peonies sprinkled with sequins, an urban cowgirl in blanket checks, and, when Marras played Kenzo's man-tailored gender games, she looked like a gangster in her fedora. The designer's own favorite look paired a serape with a wide-belted gilet over a turtleneck (and that fedora). Georgia O'Keeffe in New Mexico, he called it. The turtleneck was Marras' secret weapon. Team it with a cocktail dress and you had any-time-of-day dressing. "That's freedom," said the designer. That's also Kenzo.COMMENTS
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Pre-Fall 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras -
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Balenciaga Bally BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Costume National -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jil Sander Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo -
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Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Kors Missoni Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic Mulberry -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Philosophy Ports 1961 Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sonia Rykiel Sportmax Stella McCartney -
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T by Alexander Wang Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo




























