Creative director Antonio Marras insisted there was nothing archival in the Kenzo
pre-fall collection. If that's the case, then he has well and truly osmosed Kenzo Takada's design sensibility, because the clothes effortlessly touched all the label's bases. The theme was "urban nomad." The Kenzo gypsy was citified, with a dark, sophisticated color palette and a silhouette cinched lean with a wide belt. She was an urban peasant in a pintucked blouse with a print of Japanese peonies sprinkled with sequins, an urban cowgirl in blanket checks, and, when Marras played Kenzo's man-tailored gender games, she looked like a gangster in her fedora. The designer's own favorite look paired a serape with a wide-belted gilet over a turtleneck (and that fedora). Georgia O'Keeffe in New Mexico, he called it. The turtleneck was Marras' secret weapon. Team it with a cocktail dress and you had any-time-of-day dressing. "That's freedom," said the designer. That's also Kenzo.