Luca Luca
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, December 16, 2010
By
The Thomas Crown Affair (the 1968 original with Faye Dunaway) was an affair to remember for Luca Luca's Raul Melgoza. Inspired by the heist flick, a perennial favorite among designers despite the fact that its vitality and glamour are basically impossible to replicate, he turned out boxy gabardine shifts and a double-breasted cashmere coat with a swath of tonal leather around the waist. Houndstooth was the primary pattern in the mostly neutral collection. Sharp and graphic on a classic sheath, it showed up as a warped print on a secretary blouse and tuxedo trouser and again as a blown-up pattern in burnout velvet on a split-back shell. Melgoza is keen on designs that give the illusion of layering but are actually just one piece; his blazer has a built-in waistcoat, and high-waisted trousers looked like a corset worn over slim pants.
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