Ask a fan about the most iconic piece the house's late founder Franco Moschino ever designed, and it's likely they'll tell you about the teddy-bear coat circa 1988. It made a reappearance for pre-fall, albeit in a much tamer incarnation, as the removable collar on both a trim jacket with grosgrain edging and a slim day coat.

For the most part, though, creative director Rossella Jardini dialed down the funny to focus on pretty, feminine pieces. Skirtsuits turned up in camel cashmere and floral silk jacquard, and a cocktail dress was cut in bubble-gum pink silk on top and beaded black silk crepe below the waist. Evening drama came in the form of a little black dress that turned to reveal a back laser-cut into strips and dotted with a trio of bows.