Mulberry
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 28, 2011
By
For Mulberry's first-ever pre-fall collection, creative director Emma Hill wasn't inspired by a person (stand easy, Alexa) but by something a bit broader: the English countryside. A boxy dress, with a scalloped hem and sleeve details inspired by the perforation in a golf shoe, was offset by a beautifully tailored coat. A subtly embossed pattern of peace and love signs on a silk shift dress will ensure that the woman who wears it stands out even in basic office gear. For the second season going, Hill showed a trench, displaying a confidence that seemed to say, yes, we can compete with the hero product of that other English heritage company. And for after-hours, there was a nod to the seventies with a fluid pleated metallic crepe dress.Autumnal colors with names like bird's nest, deer brown, and conker (that's Brit-speak for chestnut) popped against intense shades of green and gold. Tweeds, Prince of Wales checks, and school uniform knife-pleat skirts were made fresh with details like jumbo push-lock hardware, chocolate coin-sized buttons, and nearly saucer-sized sequins. The girliness of it all was nicely juxtaposed with some very grown-up accessories. The calf-hair Bayswater with hammered gold detailing will have daughters raiding their mother's closets—and vice versa.
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