Narciso Rodriguez
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, December 7, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Years of putting celebrities like Claire Danes, Julianna Margulies, and Julia Louis-Dreyfus in sexy, scuba-tight dresses have earned Narciso Rodriguez his rep as a maestro of fit. But sit down with him to discuss his clothes and it's apparent that fabric comes first. "I love working with the factories, with the fabric technicians," he says. Rodriguez put them to work for pre-fall, decolorizing silk to create rainbowlike ombré effects on a wrap top layered under a fitted tweed jacket, or laundering flannel to give an otherwise pulled-together sheath a lived-in effect.The sheer black camisole that topped a washed rose jacquard dress riffed on the lingerie details of his hit Spring show. Playing the feminine against the masculine is the designer's MO this season, and it made for a surefooted, sellable outing. For every delicate slipdress, there was a sweeping leather trench; A-line skirts came paired with a boyish zip-front jacket or a peacoat. Speaking of outerwear, Rodriguez sourced what just might qualify as the world's softest, most cashmerelike wool. He cut it into a light gray-blue cardigan coat so plush you'll want to wear it as a bathrobe.
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Pre-Fall 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras -
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Balenciaga Bally BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Costume National -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jil Sander Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo -
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Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Maison Martin Margiela Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Kors Missoni Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic Mulberry -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Philosophy Ports 1961 Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Roberto Cavalli Rochas -
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Sonia Rykiel Sportmax Stella McCartney -
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T by Alexander Wang Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo







