January 09, 2011 New York
"WASP-y bohemians" and "Charlotte Rampling meets Stevie Nicks" were Peter Dundas' talking points for his pre-fall collection. To the casual observer, that might sound like business (pleasure?) as usual, but close Pucci watchers will notice a slightly more grown-up vibe to the designer's glam offerings. To start with, there was a little less leg than we're used to seeing at his high-energy Milan shows. Dundas has embraced the below-the-knee hems we've been seeing for a season or two now, and he's pairing his paisley-print silk jersey dresses with knee-high boots. Adding to the pulled-together feeling was a plenitude of tailoring. A pair of tie-dyed fitted suede blazers looked particularly fresh, as did a black and white tweed cape (part of a "three-piece suit" that included a vest and trousers). The mini show's closing look—a sequined turtleneck with a peephole back and sequined flares in two slightly different shades of bordeaux—was a novel and winning approach to evening. But the celebrity types who've grown fond of Dundas' body-baring frocks won't leave disappointed. Tucked among the looks was a thigh-grazing beaded dress with a lace-up back that echoed the white dress with the daring slit Gwyneth Paltrow received so much press for last month. It's a showstopper.
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