Unconventional glamour. That's how Marco Zanini defines his approach at Rochas, where his first ever pre-fall collection maintained a touch of the awkward charm he showed on the runway for Spring. That's partly the effect of styling. There's nothing inherently off-kilter about a chic, peachy silk tie-neck shirtdress, but add an astrakhan cap, a pair of rugged deerskin gloves, and ankle socks slouching into flat loafers? Suddenly, you've got quirk to spare.

At its core, the collection was long on girlish elegance. Boxy, collarless coats and a duchesse satin party dress had an early Camelot-Kennedy optimism. Simple charmeuse frocks in pale neutral hues came cut on the bias while others were trimmed with scalloped ruffles. In place of Spring's riot of scarf prints was a single Deco-ish jacquard, inspired by vintage 1930's wallpaper and created specially for Zanini by Bucol. It was relatively stiff stuff, one of a few very constructed fabrics he used on tailored tops, belled skirts, and wide, mannish trousers. They could be a gamble for a "commercial" season, but Zanini made a convincing case. Consider this a successful entry into the high stakes world of pre-collections.