January 09, 2011 New York
At its core, the collection was long on girlish elegance. Boxy, collarless coats and a duchesse satin party dress had an early Camelot-Kennedy optimism. Simple charmeuse frocks in pale neutral hues came cut on the bias while others were trimmed with scalloped ruffles. In place of Spring's riot of scarf prints was a single Deco-ish jacquard, inspired by vintage 1930's wallpaper and created specially for Zanini by Bucol. It was relatively stiff stuff, one of a few very constructed fabrics he used on tailored tops, belled skirts, and wide, mannish trousers. They could be a gamble for a "commercial" season, but Zanini made a convincing case. Consider this a successful entry into the high stakes world of pre-collections.