December 16, 2010 New York
The designers approached their task via the interworking of modern fibers and traditional shapes, which met in a cabled sweater that looked classic but had a cool, dry hand thanks to yarn spun with nylon. It could have been a chilly offering, but the palette warmed things up, with excursions into a rich, sable-colored amber, a honeyed orange called Butternut, and a slightly dusty strawberry pink. Mink, beaver, and leather dressed up a few pieces, but the focus at TSE will always be on cashmere. This was a less trend-driven outing than the one Groom and Noble (and capsule-collection designer Jason Wu) put together for Spring. But with its marriage of form and function (as in tailored pieces created from full patterns, rather than simply knit), there's more to this collection than meets the eye.