TSE
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, December 17, 2010
By
The new TSE collection was inspired, said designers Jessica Groom and Dushane Noble, by the Shakers, the religious group known for its mastery of unostentatious design. The ultimate ascetics and a cashmere brand noted for its luxuriousness might not seem like an easy match. Then again, in our current moment of Celine-ified minimalism, a studied application of, and even a reverence for, craftsmanship feels right on the money. "We were looking at [Shaker] architecture and design, and how integrated it was into their lifestyle," Groom said at a showroom appointment today. "Design was part of their spirituality."The designers approached their task via the interworking of modern fibers and traditional shapes, which met in a cabled sweater that looked classic but had a cool, dry hand thanks to yarn spun with nylon. It could have been a chilly offering, but the palette warmed things up, with excursions into a rich, sable-colored amber, a honeyed orange called Butternut, and a slightly dusty strawberry pink. Mink, beaver, and leather dressed up a few pieces, but the focus at TSE will always be on cashmere. This was a less trend-driven outing than the one Groom and Noble (and capsule-collection designer Jason Wu) put together for Spring. But with its marriage of form and function (as in tailored pieces created from full patterns, rather than simply knit), there's more to this collection than meets the eye.
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