"I started out thinking outdoorsy, L.L.Bean style," Thuy Pham, one half (with Miho Aoki) of United Bamboo
, said in his studio today. But Leon Leonwood Bean likely wouldn't recognize his influence on the clothes that Pham showed today. Outdoors, maybe. The dominant shape was a jodhpur-style pant with equestrienne details like reinforced seams and double button plackets; Pham and Aoki made it their own by adding a slightly dropped crotch, exterior patch pockets, and cropping it at the calf. Cropping, in fact, was the byword of the whole collection. Matching jackets were cut off, too, making for an off-kilter silhouette. Outerwear was nipped: A series of wool peacoats in blazing red wool were cut high on the waist, or had their arms shorn to become cap-sleeved vests. Red has been a key color for statement coats lately
, and these pieces were among the collection's strongest. Second place to the grid-patterned Japanese knits: cardigans, bloomers, and high socks.