The first thing you noticed at Celine's showroom presentation today: the wall of accessories. In addition to reorienting fashion in a more minimal direction with her ready-to-wear, Phoebe Philo ushered in a new era of small, understated bags when she launched her boxy, shoulder-strap Classic bag last year. For Resort, she's added a new, larger Classic bag to the lineup, as well as fluorescents and exotic skins. The designer's approach, whether to It bags or to clothes, is evolutionary. Just because the rest of the world has latched onto her vision and even tried to give it a handy label—"utility chic"—doesn't mean she's ready to hare off in a new direction. On the evidence of this showing, she remains committed to building an iconic wardrobe, and there's little doubt that in the short time she's been at the French luxury goods house, she's designed some iconic pieces.

The natural jute Philo used for Spring's popular A-line skirt and high-waisted, flaring pants reappeared here in the form of a collarless coat with subtle gold buttons and a sleeveless shift with not-so-subtle zips above the breasts. Her full trousers were cut in crisp white cotton and paired with a matching tunic (she also showed the look in tobacco brown). Her familiar evening all-in-one was demure in front and daring in back, with a low V cut. And the peplumed army jacket that you saw all over the front rows has been extended into a coat. An off-white silk satin halter gown suspended from a brass necklace summed up the collection—and Philo's MO—rather nicely. It was a subtle knockout.