Style.com

Cerruti

PARIS, June 28, 2010
By Tim Blanks
In its heyday, Cerruti's womenswear elegantly tempered men's tailoring with soft sensuality. It's an aesthetic that Richard Nicoll instinctively understands, as proven by a Resort collection that featured structured jackets layered over elongated, silky draped tops, or an overcoat in double-faced gabardine topping tapered, printed pants. Nicoll's clothes are distinctly urban in their impact. Here, he deconstructed an oversized mac and put it back together again as a chic biker jacket, and used a substantial jersey for a cobalt blue pantsuit that offered a smart, athletic update to power dressing. "For the active working woman," the designer said with a laugh. It was the kind of outfit that exemplified the "bourgeois codes of dressing" Nicoll thinks are fundamental to Cerruti. Still, a white organza jacket with linen lapels was equally part of his equation. He paired it with a tank and bermudas for a seductive take on the city suit. With time, Nicoll may very well give Cerruti a running chance at a renaissance.

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