Donna Karan switched it up for Resort, opting for a runway show rather than the showroom appointments she usually does. The more formal setting suited the white, black, navy, and silver clothes, nearly all of which were designed for after dark. "Holiday belongs to the night," her program notes declared. She opened with a satin-wool tuxedo jacket over a slinky chain-mail halter top and a stretch pencil skirt that established the masculine-feminine point-counterpoint rhythm of the collection. Pantsuits had the soft, slouchy ease of pajamas—one robelike jacket even had a hood—while a silk crepe jumpsuit came strictly tailored on top and loose and flowing below the waist.

Her signature goddess dresses, on the other hand, were all woman. Deeply cowled, one-shouldered, in satin jersey or liquid lamé, knee-length and to-the-floor, Karan did them every which way. Several look destined for the red carpet (perhaps she'll wear one herself to the CFDA Awards next week, where she's nominated for Designer of the Year), but the most eye-catching was pieced together from swathes of ivory, royal blue, and platinum. A few day looks with the same sort of pop would've been welcome additions.