Tucked inside the programs at Diane von Furstenberg's show was a 1983 Ara Gallant photo of the designer perched on a director's stool in front of a wall of mirrors, wearing a pink silk teddy. The sexy image provided inspiration for today's runway setup—models checked out their reflections before stepping through a giant keyhole onto the catwalk—and for the saucy collection's boudoir-meets-the-beach look.

In other words, this was a reversal from her menswear-influenced Fall show, with von Furstenberg going 100 percent femme—more familiar and fertile territory for this designer. She turned out forties-style rompers with matching visors and totes, paired blouson tops with high-waisted leggy shorts, and cinched wrap dresses over bathing suits. A preponderance of graphic stripes, polka-dot prints, and tropical colors like lime and coral accentuated the holiday-trousseau feeling of it all (this, like all of her Resort collections, was called La Petite Valise), but some pieces, like a beige trench, could do double duty in the city.