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Emporio Armani

MILAN, June 21, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Giorgio Armani called his Emporio Armani collection "Fancy Week." Pragmatist that he is, though, he included not only fancy pants for parties, but also a solid core of chic urban sportswear for play and work. Armani's marriage of a shawl-collared, single-buttoned jacket and slightly slouchy pant is a contemporary classic; here it was just one facet of a collection that balanced structured, slightly stiffer fabrics with fluid materials: double-faced duchesse shorts with a languid silvery knit cardigan jacket, for instance, or a tailored jacket over baggy pants. A navy jacket and a white waistcoat were cut from a leather mesh, highlighting the sportiness of this line (though perforated fabrics are so omnipresent in fashion now that a case could be made for them as the twenty-first century's answer to lace). Evening looked strong and graphic in a little draped shift with a sun ray of beaded straps racing across the back, or a short-sleeved cropped jacket made up of strips of leather and chiffon and worn with black cigarette pants and heels.

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